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MrObsessive

A few 3D prints of mine from files converted from the site.

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Hi All, I've posted here before, but I thought I'd try posting pics of files I've converted from some of the game model files I've gotten off of here. I'm very much into 3D printing, and some of the files I've downloaded from here have been PHENOMENAL as far as the body shape accuracy, and for the astounding detail as far as interior and body.


I don't sell my files, nor the printed bodies. This is strictly a hobby for me, and I'd like to keep it that way.

Thanks for looking-----any questions, please ask.

1958 Plymouth Fury from the Forza Horizon 4 video game......

IMG_7209.thumb.jpg.63eeb7ea1b85d6c0b69cff7f71eba17c.jpgIMG_7210.thumb.jpg.63d70e30f64c432573ba2a0564ec1555.jpgIMG_7272.thumb.jpg.feb976939d0066ba50034d553966a819.jpgIMG_7274.thumb.jpg.ecf35c064219bc310b74ed2d7b6db288.jpg

 

1968 Shelby GT500 KR Convertible. Some of the body parts used came from Shelby Mustang game model files I downloaded from here. P1018296.thumb.JPG.b5ea354ea7916628e0ceb21f6594080c.JPGP1018298.thumb.JPG.334adb3257dd4475fdcea7b7c8c43742.JPGP1018306.thumb.JPG.f7c27c4ccab7c1a278cc656ddb41f9bb.JPGP1018307.thumb.JPG.97ebb73d907307e328a039215211017a.JPGP1018308.thumb.JPG.5dc5e009a04c2765953f4321db4a1477.JPG

 

A few screenshots of files that I've finished, but haven't printed as of yet. As the weather warms up again, I'll be printing a bit more as the room I use in my house, I won't have to put a space heater in the room to keep the printers and resin warmed up while running.

 

1970 Plymouth Hemi 'Cuda from Forza Horizon.........

CUDA64.thumb.jpg.3051cf400178272093c1df5550702dff.jpgCUDA65.thumb.jpg.0b1f70a2392433d6d9079b92ca0408b9.jpgCUDA66.thumb.jpg.750c10cfd4960cdd32811299f16a1364.jpgCUDA67.thumb.jpg.a68b333a8603529455b1ee8b0bcc3b82.jpgCUDA61.thumb.jpg.570b32a6048130993eae2f1ae1725424.jpg

 

One more-----just finished this a couple days ago. 1966 Corvair Monza four door hardtop converted from the Forza Horizon 1969 Corvair Monza two door hardtop.

1445352132_Corvair34D.thumb.jpg.329f1c972900457d40534cd9a685293c.jpg2033227434_Corvair34E.thumb.jpg.4ead9e699fa3bf596ddc783822bb8e0a.jpg2029465670_Corvair34F.thumb.jpg.3b8391d4d8ea820d33e6f62560fa9aff.jpg1861841355_Corvair34G.thumb.jpg.c9e6bff900d1439523b9f4db377868e5.jpg457895677_Corvair34H.thumb.jpg.db0c33abda1b798f6acfb27d4051f8c5.jpg2024302899_Corvair37.thumb.jpg.ffadec4ddc500e1db19f9c8da31a74f8.jpg

 

Thanks for looking! 😁

 

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I've just started doing this too, I really like super cars and have challenged myself to do the McLaren P1 first! 

Have you managed to print glass parts in clear resin yet? If you have. does it look ok?

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This is awesome! I also love scale model cars and 3d printing so finding this site with all the 3d stuff was such a gift. So far, i only converted some very specific spare parts like rims, exterior and interior pieces for 3d printing to use on my 1:24 models i am currently building.  A full kit is also on my to-do list for the future.

 

What i was wondering is how you prepared the 3d body to be suitable for printing? Do you use some kind of addon or modifier in blender to add thickness to the model or do yo do it manually?  i tried the solidify modifier on one of the potential cars i want to print but it gives me weird results which i would have to clean up by hand and it would take a lot of time. Do you have a more smart way of doing it? Thank you!

 

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2 hours ago, cs22567 said:

I've just started doing this too, I really like super cars and have challenged myself to do the McLaren P1 first! 

Have you managed to print glass parts in clear resin yet? If you have. does it look ok?

I'm not a fan of printed glass as it always appeared too "frosty" for my tastes, despite it being done at a high resolution. I've not seen any good examples of clear printed glass for windshields for example, but I've seen some very nice head and taillights done.

 

For windscreens, you're much better off if you either use clear stencil sheet, or vacuform a windshield buck using .020 PETG or Vivak.

 

1 hour ago, synth88 said:

This is awesome! I also love scale model cars and 3d printing so finding this site with all the 3d stuff was such a gift. So far, i only converted some very specific spare parts like rims, exterior and interior pieces for 3d printing to use on my 1:24 models i am currently building.  A full kit is also on my to-do list for the future.

 

What i was wondering is how you prepared the 3d body to be suitable for printing? Do you use some kind of addon or modifier in blender to add thickness to the model or do yo do it manually?  i tried the solidify modifier on one of the potential cars i want to print but it gives me weird results which i would have to clean up by hand and it would take a lot of time. Do you have a more smart way of doing it? Thank you!

 

You'll want to use an "extrusion" method to do your wall thickness. What I do is separate each body panel according to how it's shaped in a certain plane. I try to keep horizontal parts in the same body plane, more vertical ones I'll separate out for that. You'll want to completely strip the body of all the chrome, and other objects and save those as their own part names. Blender has a function where you can do this (if the file is formatted that way), and it makes extruding body panels MUCH easier without dragging the chrome and scripts along with it.

I don't recommend Blender's solidify modifier----it does not work well on car bodies at all. What happens is that it can create very thin inside walls for print---a recipe asking for disaster within the machine while printing. It's a bit involved to explain here all that goes into extrusion. I have a few pics below using a door panel for example.

First you want just the body panel in edit mode-----no chrome, scripts, or other filigree...........

 

2023-01-23.thumb.png.ab7a2b2281492d23e9bd6c9678fe6f7b.png

 

Next you want to hit the "E" key (for extrude) in Blender..........Either use your mouse, or the right/left arrow keys to move the faces.

 

Tried to load another pic here, but I hit a limit after the last one.

 

After you start to extrude, you can then determine what your wall thickness should be. Ideally, you want around 1.5 to 2mm's for wall thickness. Less than 1.5, you're going to have trouble with your rockers and fenders creasing/flaring due to the thinness.

There is a measuring tool in Blender.......it's on the left hand side where you see the little "L" shaped ruler. Use that to measure while in edit mode, as you can measure vertices to vertices in a straight X or Y axis orthographic mode to get your proper wall thickness.

After you're done extruding, you want to go to "mesh" and hit "recalculate outside" still in edit mode. This will ensure the faces are pointing outwards, otherwise the part will show up black in your slicer. I know at least in Chitubox it does this. Export the part out under its file name, and it may not hurt to rename the file with the suffix "REV A" or something like that.

Hope all this helps as that's what it takes to get good wall thickness. Tedious and time consuming, but I've had very few part failures doing it this way.

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Thank you for your swift reply! I get what you are saying, i use blender for some conceptual designs and renders/animations at my job so i know a thing or two about it.. But your detailed description is very much appreciated:)

You have given an example of a door where an approximate even thickness (but not 100%) can be achieved by just extruding in one direction, but with more complex shapes like the roof or similarly complex panels, you would have to ideally extrude faces along their normals.. but then again, that is more or less what the solidify modifier does and it, unfortunately, does not give a good result. Let's say you have to add an even thickness to th is roof part in the picture:

 

 

can you add a thickness in one go or do you slice it up into separate pieces (roughly how it is highlighted in the second screenshot) and then extrude each of them in the axis direction they are closest aligned to? after you are done, do you boolean all the pieces together or do you bridge faces in between by hand? Maybe if you would show the mesh in edit mode of one of your body shells it might be helping somewhat.

 

 

BTW, just in case you don't know, in edit mode once you have selected all the faces of a mesh, you can perform the ALT+j to transform all triangular faces into quads. It gives you a much nicer surface to work on. (you do need to merge all the vertices by distance first for it to work properly). I am just mentioning it because i see the mesh of the door:)

Screenshot (90).png

Screenshot (92).png

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39 minutes ago, synth88 said:

Thank you for your swift reply! I get what you are saying, i use blender for some conceptual designs and renders/animations at my job so i know a thing or two about it.. But your detailed description is very much appreciated:)

You have given an example of a door where an approximate even thickness (but not 100%) can be achieved by just extruding in one direction, but with more complex shapes like the roof or similarly complex panels, you would have to ideally extrude faces along their normals.. but then again, that is more or less what the solidify modifier does and it, unfortunately, does not give a good result. Let's say you have to add an even thickness to th is roof part in the picture:

 

 

can you add a thickness in one go or do you slice it up into separate pieces (roughly how it is highlighted in the second screenshot) and then extrude each of them in the axis direction they are closest aligned to? after you are done, do you boolean all the pieces together or do you bridge faces in between by hand? Maybe if you would show the mesh in edit mode of one of your body shells it might be helping somewhat.

 

 

BTW, just in case you don't know, in edit mode once you have selected all the faces of a mesh, you can perform the ALT+j to transform all triangular faces into quads. It gives you a much nicer surface to work on. (you do need to merge all the vertices by distance first for it to work properly). I am just mentioning it because i see the mesh of the door:)

Screenshot (90).png

Screenshot (92).png

Since part of your roof is on the vertical plane (just above the window line), I'd include that too as part of a file. Basically, you'd want the A pillar, just above the window line before it starts to curve, and your C pillar down to the tulip panel/shoulder. What I do is highlight what I need, then hit the H key to hide it. Delete everything else, then unhide the part by hitting ALT-H. Save that part as its own file. Then you want to hit CRTL-Z which will bring back everything including the highlighted faces.....BUT-----you want to UN-highlight the overlapping vertices that were on your original part. Once you've done that, you can delete the rest, and continue on with the separation. You can always re-import the part to make sure you don't have any missing faces as you go on and separate the remaining sections.

It takes some practice, but it's the only way I know of you to get results for wall thickness when it comes to car bodies.

Yes, I've used the ALT-J function to turn things into quads........I just a needed quick pic to show what can be done.

I wish I could post more pics here, but I keep getting a pop-up notice that says I've exceeded my limit.
😞

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