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MrObsessive

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  1. Since part of your roof is on the vertical plane (just above the window line), I'd include that too as part of a file. Basically, you'd want the A pillar, just above the window line before it starts to curve, and your C pillar down to the tulip panel/shoulder. What I do is highlight what I need, then hit the H key to hide it. Delete everything else, then unhide the part by hitting ALT-H. Save that part as its own file. Then you want to hit CRTL-Z which will bring back everything including the highlighted faces.....BUT-----you want to UN-highlight the overlapping vertices that were on your original part. Once you've done that, you can delete the rest, and continue on with the separation. You can always re-import the part to make sure you don't have any missing faces as you go on and separate the remaining sections. It takes some practice, but it's the only way I know of you to get results for wall thickness when it comes to car bodies. Yes, I've used the ALT-J function to turn things into quads........I just a needed quick pic to show what can be done. I wish I could post more pics here, but I keep getting a pop-up notice that says I've exceeded my limit.
  2. I'm not a fan of printed glass as it always appeared too "frosty" for my tastes, despite it being done at a high resolution. I've not seen any good examples of clear printed glass for windshields for example, but I've seen some very nice head and taillights done. For windscreens, you're much better off if you either use clear stencil sheet, or vacuform a windshield buck using .020 PETG or Vivak. You'll want to use an "extrusion" method to do your wall thickness. What I do is separate each body panel according to how it's shaped in a certain plane. I try to keep horizontal parts in the same body plane, more vertical ones I'll separate out for that. You'll want to completely strip the body of all the chrome, and other objects and save those as their own part names. Blender has a function where you can do this (if the file is formatted that way), and it makes extruding body panels MUCH easier without dragging the chrome and scripts along with it. I don't recommend Blender's solidify modifier----it does not work well on car bodies at all. What happens is that it can create very thin inside walls for print---a recipe asking for disaster within the machine while printing. It's a bit involved to explain here all that goes into extrusion. I have a few pics below using a door panel for example. First you want just the body panel in edit mode-----no chrome, scripts, or other filigree........... Next you want to hit the "E" key (for extrude) in Blender..........Either use your mouse, or the right/left arrow keys to move the faces. Tried to load another pic here, but I hit a limit after the last one. After you start to extrude, you can then determine what your wall thickness should be. Ideally, you want around 1.5 to 2mm's for wall thickness. Less than 1.5, you're going to have trouble with your rockers and fenders creasing/flaring due to the thinness. There is a measuring tool in Blender.......it's on the left hand side where you see the little "L" shaped ruler. Use that to measure while in edit mode, as you can measure vertices to vertices in a straight X or Y axis orthographic mode to get your proper wall thickness. After you're done extruding, you want to go to "mesh" and hit "recalculate outside" still in edit mode. This will ensure the faces are pointing outwards, otherwise the part will show up black in your slicer. I know at least in Chitubox it does this. Export the part out under its file name, and it may not hurt to rename the file with the suffix "REV A" or something like that. Hope all this helps as that's what it takes to get good wall thickness. Tedious and time consuming, but I've had very few part failures doing it this way.
  3. I have two.............both are Phrozens. A Sonic Mighty and Mini 4k.
  4. Hi All, I've posted here before, but I thought I'd try posting pics of files I've converted from some of the game model files I've gotten off of here. I'm very much into 3D printing, and some of the files I've downloaded from here have been PHENOMENAL as far as the body shape accuracy, and for the astounding detail as far as interior and body. I don't sell my files, nor the printed bodies. This is strictly a hobby for me, and I'd like to keep it that way. Thanks for looking-----any questions, please ask. 1958 Plymouth Fury from the Forza Horizon 4 video game...... 1968 Shelby GT500 KR Convertible. Some of the body parts used came from Shelby Mustang game model files I downloaded from here. A few screenshots of files that I've finished, but haven't printed as of yet. As the weather warms up again, I'll be printing a bit more as the room I use in my house, I won't have to put a space heater in the room to keep the printers and resin warmed up while running. 1970 Plymouth Hemi 'Cuda from Forza Horizon......... One more-----just finished this a couple days ago. 1966 Corvair Monza four door hardtop converted from the Forza Horizon 1969 Corvair Monza two door hardtop. Thanks for looking!
    I've been looking for a Maserati Birdcage 3D file which has the COMPLETE frame and all. These files have that and then some! I already have a .stl file of the '60 Birdcage, now I can make it really complete as it not only has the full frame which I can make printable, it has the top end of the engine which I can make complete also. Thanks soooo much for posting this!
  5. Pico, once you have the .obj files in Blender for example, select all the files in the list on the right, and then go into Edit mode. Once in edit mode, hit the A key which selects all the faces. If things separate out as they should, some things you'll see highlighted others you won't. Now you want to hit the "L" key and that's when you should see a window come up. In that window, hit the "P" key for selecting loose parts. Go back to object mode, and go in an select which parts you want. You can then hit the "G" key to move those parts wherever you want them. Hope this helps....I do this all the time to separate body panels and such, and rename those files so that I can print them later after they've been converted to be printable.
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